Stairs
Stairs that are easy to use are also safe stairs. For example,
handrails on stairways are an important safety factor for all
of us. But for many people, stairs are useless unless they have
handrails. Stairways are a necessary evil, second only to bathrooms
in incidence of accidents. As we become older, stairways become
more and more difficult to use and their design becomes critical.
The information in this section applies to both interior and exterior
stairs in your home.
Treads and Risers 
Tread and riser designs are extremely important.
Risers in excess of 6-7" are difficult for
many people to climb and are dangerous tripping hazards.
Outside risers should have a maximum height of
4". The tread should be wide enough to allow your foot to
rest completely on the tread without extending over the edge of
the step. Where the total length of a stairway is limited, you
can extend tread width by installing a projecting edge, or a nosing
on the front of the treads. However, unless you install them properly,
nosings can create tripping hazards, especially for people with
leg paralysis.
Nosings should be beveled, either by the insertion
of a piece of wood or metal that will allow toes to slide up and
over or by carpeting to slant the nosing projection.
Open risers (found on many exterior wooden stairs)
are a real hazard to most people because of their tripping potential,
but you can easily close them off with pieces of wood.
Handrails
You should install handrails on both sides of your stairways so
that you or anyone else who has strength on only one side will
have support as you go up or come down. If you have a wide stairway
or you can't provide handrails on both sides, you may want to
install a single handrail in the center of the stairway. This
installation allows users to keep the handrail on their strong
side. Handrails should also extend beyond the top and the bottom
nosings because users need their support to get on and off the
last step.
Handrails should be designed so that users can
grip the rail between thumb and fingers. This "grasp-ability"
or opposition is essential to the safety of users.
Handrails should be mounted approximately 11/2"
away from the wall to allow adequate grasping space for knuckles
and fingers. They should be mounted to support up to 250 pounds
at any point. You can secure a handrail by installing mollybolts
through the wallboard or screwing directly into the upright studs
behind the wall surface. Handrails made from wood should be properly
finished to avoid splinters.
Stairway Lighting
Many stairway accidents can be prevented with lighting that shines
uniformly on the steps and the top and bottom landings. Be certain,
however, that your stairway lights don't create glare or distract
persons who use the stairs. Indirect lighting (lighting that does
not shine directly on the object being lighted), is the best alternative
for stairways.
Ramps
Many barrier-free design specialists prescribe ramps wherever
floor levels change. Ramps help people in wheelchairs, but for
others they create additional problems. Bifocal wearers sometimes
misjudge the correct distance and slope of a ramp. Some users
slip if the surface is not properly prepared. By following the
advice listed below, you can make your ramps safer.
Slope
Exterior ramps should have a maximum slope of 1" of rise
for every 20" of length (1 to 20 slope) to insure that ice,
snow, leaves, and other debris won't create a sliding or slipping
hazard. If possible, they should be located where sunshine will
reach them in winter to help melt accumulated snow or ice.
Interior ramps should have a maximum slope of 1"
to 12" because many people in wheelchairs cannot push themselves
up a steeper incline, and a steeper slope can cause a wheelchair
to tip over backwards.
Ramps used in and outside the home are usually
made of treated wood. Their structural details are shown below.
Outside, concrete or metal ramps may be more suitable
than wood ramps. In some cases, ramps with an extreme slope (1
to 8, for example) may be appropriate for persons in wheelchairs
if they have strong upper torsos or power wheelchairs. Before
you install ramps of any kind, determine the exact needs of the
people who will use them.
Landings
Landings are necessary at the top and bottom of ramps, and at
intermediate levels where a ramp changes direction or rises higher
than 3'. Intermediate landings provide rest areas and adequate
maneuvering space for turns. Landings should be at least 5' long
at all of these locations.
Handrails
If you install ramps, make sure to provide handrails on both sides,
for the same reasons they are needed on stairways.
Ramp Surfaces
Since an inclined surface creates an increased slipping hazard,
you should provide a non-slip surface on all ramps. For exterior
wooden ramps, you can apply paint mixed with sand. One pound of
silica sand added to a gallon of paint (and mixed thoroughly)
is effective. Several paint manufacturers make non-skid deck paints
which provide the same type of non-skid surface.
You can also use rolled roofing material. When
properly tacked down, it provides a good non-slip surface for
walking or wheeling.
If your ramps are exposed to snow and ice, or have
an extreme slope, you or another attendant will have to assist
members of your household or visitors who use wheelchairs. Battens
(small strips of wood nailed to the surface) provide adequate
footing for this purpose.
Broom-finished concrete is an excellent surface
for exterior concrete ramps.
Make sure the broom strokes are perpendicular to
the slope of the ramp. On interior ramps, most surfaces work adequately
if they aren't slippery. Try to avoid using carpeting, waxed linoleum,
or glossy painted surfaces.
Portable ramps
Portable ramps are sometimes adequate, but are usually short and
can only facilitate a small level change. They are available from
many surgical supply houses, and from manufacturers listed in
the Resources.
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